Roller blinds are the simplest blind mechanism there is: a tube, two brackets, and fabric that wraps around the tube. That simplicity is why they’re usually the cheapest made-to-measure option, the easiest to fit yourself, and the type we suggest first-time DIY fitters start with.

Where they work well — and where they don’t

Rollers suit most rooms: living rooms, bedrooms (in a blackout fabric), kitchens and offices. Moisture-resistant polyester versions handle bathrooms better than any fabric roman or wooden venetian.

Their weaknesses are light control and edge gaps. A roller is either up or down — there are no slats to angle. Fitted inside a recess, there will always be a strip of light down each side, because the fabric is narrower than the mechanism. If total darkness matters, fit outside the recess with generous overlap, or look at a day and night blind or blackout roller in a side-channel system.

Measuring for a roller blind

Follow the general rules in our measuring guide, plus the roller-specific points below. Use a metal tape, measure in millimetres, and write every number down.

Inside the recess (recess fit)

  1. Measure the recess width at the top, middle and bottom. Use the smallest of the three.
  2. Measure the recess drop at the left, centre and right. Use the smallest if you want the blind to clear the sill.
  3. Check the recess depth. The blind needs enough depth for its brackets to sit flat — typically at least 60–75 mm depending on the bracket, and window handles that stick out can need more. Retailers list the minimum depth for each product; check it before you order.
  4. Give the retailer the exact recess measurements and say it’s a recess fit. Most make the deduction for the mechanism themselves.

Outside the recess (exact fit)

  1. Decide the finished blind width. A common approach is the recess width plus roughly 50–75 mm of overlap on each side to limit light leak — more if the blind is for a bedroom.
  2. For the drop, add overlap above the recess (enough for the bracket to fix into solid wall, clear of the lintel edge if you can) and decide whether the blind should finish at the sill or below it.
  3. Give these as exact blind sizes and say it’s an outside/exact fit.

Every retailer has slightly different ordering rules — some want the recess size, some want the finished blind size. Read the product’s own measuring instructions before you type numbers into the basket.

Fitting: what’s actually involved

A roller blind needs two brackets fixed level, the blind clicked in, and the chain safety clip fixed to the wall — that’s the whole job. With a drill, a pencil, a spirit level (or level app) and 20–30 minutes per window, most people manage it fine. The full process, including drilling into uPVC, concrete lintels and tiles, is covered step by step in how to fit blinds yourself.

Two things catch people out:

  • The lintel. Above most windows there’s a concrete or steel lintel. Concrete needs a masonry bit and patience; steel usually means switching to self-drilling screws or repositioning the brackets.
  • Chain safety. Since 2014, UK-supplied blinds must come with a child safety device — for rollers, a chain tensioner or cleat that must be fixed to the wall. Fit it; it isn’t optional packaging. See child-safe blinds.

What rollers cost, roughly

Rollers are usually the cheapest made-to-measure type: small plain blinds can come in around the price of a takeaway, while large blackout or premium-fabric versions cost meaningfully more. Professional fitting is priced per blind or per visit — see our fitting cost guide for realistic ranges and what pushes them up.

If you’re comfortable measuring, ordering made-to-measure online and fitting yourself is where rollers make the most financial sense: it’s the lowest-risk blind to DIY, and the saving over a full measure-and-fit service is largest in percentage terms.

Frequently asked questions

Should roller blinds go inside or outside the recess?

Inside the recess looks neater and keeps the sill usable, but light leaks around the edges. Outside the recess blocks more light and hides an out-of-square window, but the blind sits proud of the wall. For bedrooms, outside-recess (or inside-recess plus curtains) usually controls light better.

What does 'exact width' mean when ordering a roller blind?

Most retailers ask for the exact width of the space and make their own deduction for brackets. Check each retailer's instructions before ordering — some deduct for you, some expect you to give the finished blind size. Ordering rules are not interchangeable between shops.

Can I cut a roller blind down to size myself?

Ready-made roller blinds can often be trimmed with a hacksaw (tube) and scissors or a sharp knife (fabric), and many are sold with cutting guides. Made-to-measure blinds should never need cutting — if yours doesn't fit, contact the retailer before modifying it, or you'll void any guarantee.